How Best to Evaluate the "Bargains" at Yard Sales and Thrift Stores

This time of year (Springtime, yay!) you find boat loads of lawn and garden tools in various states of repair at thrift stores and yard sales. Sure there's some great bargains to be had, but how much of a bargain is it really?  As they say, if it's too good to be true... My latest video will empower you to decide if the bargain is worth the cash when looking at 2-stroke weed trimmers, edgers, blowers and even chainsaws.  

Follow along on my version of "A Tale of Two Trimmers":

Yard sales afford you a better chance of getting the straight dope on a particular piece of equipment. Question the owner: "How long have you had this tool?"  "Ever had it services by a shop?" "When was the last time you used it?" These are all clues to the condition and more importantly how well this tool was cared for. The answers might also give you reason to barter on the price as well. 

In any event, most yard sale and thrift store purchases will require some additional time and parts and money to get going again.  New carburetors, filters and carb kits can cost less than $40. Keep in mind you'll have to tune the carb from scratch if you go with a replacement rather than a rebuild kit.  Taking the tool to a repair center can cost upwards of $80-$100.  So add all those costs in your calculation to decide if it's worth the purchase.

Good luck with your yard sale and thrift store adventures.

If you are looking for any of the tools I showed you, please check these links:

Chainsaw multi-tool:  https://amzn.to/3fVZvVW

Inline Neon Spark Tester:  https://amzn.to/3z6DrPQ

Ignition Tester:  https://amzn.to/3cn034R

No Contact Spark Tester: https://amzn.to/2TNBMyE

Compression Test Tool:  https://amzn.to/3z74BX6

I hope these tips and tricks can empower you with oracle like skills to make your small engines run smoothly and consistently.

Please subscribe to my Youtube channel: The Lawnmower Lady and get notifications of new videos. Or follow along on Instagram at thelawnmowerlady and Twitter at the Lawnmower Lady 

Mow Happy!

Standard Disclaimer: Any links to products are likely affiliate links, and I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases (Thank You!), with no additional costs to you.

Wear your safety glasses, or you'll put your eye out. Try on some gloves. Take off that spark plug boot. Clean your room. Open the windows, those fumes are nasty. Just 'cause I do it, don't think it's the end all, be all solution. There's plenty more ideas out there, I can't take responsibility if you slice off a few fingers after watching my videos. And don't just pour that toxic stuff down the sewer or in the ditch, dispose of waste responsibly. Just be safe, OK?

Change the Oil on Your Older Briggs & Stratton Lawn Mower's L-Head Engine

Springtime is here and that means its time to check your oil dipstick!  Second to a dirty air filter, checking and changing the oil on your small engine is often overlooked. This Briggs & Stratton L-head engine is common on many older lawn mowers with brand names like Craftsman, Yard Machines, Troy-Bilt, Cub Cadet, Murray, and several others. Follow along with my latest Youtube video to check and change the oil on your older lawn mower: 

Here is the oil that Briggs & Stratton recommends: https://amzn.to/3ppXrZk for their small engines. Regardless of what oil you use, the proper amount is paramount. Always check your owner's manual, but generally speaking these small engines take around 18-20oz or a little over 1/2 liter of oil. Running too low can cause your engine to seize up. That might mean a new lawn mower. I would venture to say that ten year old lawn mower you own now is a far better machine than a new one that you can buy from a big box store today. Since so much manufacturing has gone overseas, the companies have to cut corners and that is apparent in the quality and reliability of the newer mowers. 

Running too much oil is not quite as bad as running out, but it's a close second. Too much oil will back through your air filter, clogging that up. It tends to foul spark plugs as well. Unfortunately adding more oil to a poorly running machine is not going to fix the problem. I find often someone has gone to a popular discount department store, purchased the first quart of oil they see on the shelf, and pour the entire full quart into their mower. This causes more problems that it fixes, and the mower belches out white smoke as the muffler clogs up with the excess oil that is trying to escape the internal pressure of the running engine. That picture on the left is a full quart of bar and chain oil (for use in chainsaws, not lawn mowers!)

Most any dip stick will have marks to indicate the acceptable oil level range.  Often it's two small holes drilled near the end of a metal dipstick with some hashmarks between the holes. Plastic dip sticks often have a hashmarked area on the dipstick to indicate the acceptable range. Always check your owner's manual, and if you don't have the hard copy of that, google your model number (not the serial number) with the words "owners manual" There are numerous resources online with free PDF copies of nearly every machine made is the last 50 years. You might need to register your email to download your manual, but I've never found the need to purchase or spend any money getting a small engine manual. Way, way too much oil on this dipstick!

Once you have your owner's manual on hand, make sure your mower is on a level surface to check your oil. If you just shut it off, wait about five minutes for an accurate reading. Most Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh engines require you to screw the dip stick back in completely. Most Hondas and some Kohler engines do not, and usually have a sticker on the side indicating as much. I can't emphasize enough:  Check your Owner's Manual to be sure!!

I hope these tips and tricks can empower you with oracle like skills to make your small engines run smoothly and consistently.

Please subscribe to my Youtube channel: The Lawnmower Lady and get notifications of new videos. Or follow along on Instagram at thelawnmowerlady and Twitter at the Lawnmower Lady 

Mow Happy!

Standard Disclaimer: Any links to products are likely affiliate links, and I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases (Thank You!), with no additional costs to you.

Wear your safety glasses, or you'll put your eye out. Try on some gloves. Take off that spark plug boot. Clean your room. Open the windows, those fumes are nasty. Just 'cause I do it, don't think it's the end all, be all solution. There's plenty more ideas out there, I can't take responsibility if you slice off a few fingers after watching my videos. And don't just pour that toxic stuff down the sewer or in the ditch, dispose of waste responsibly. Just be safe, OK?

Riding Mower Tune-up for a John Deere D-110 Lawn Tractor

Springtime is that time of year to get your lawn tractor back out of the shed to start mowing. It's also a great time to give your old riding mower some well deserved TLC to keep it running at its best. These "tune-up" procedures will be the same or similar for smaller riding mowers in the 42" cut range on Husqvarna, Craftsman, Poulan Pro, Ariens, Troy-Bilt, Cub Cadet, and several others. Follow along with my tutorial on how I tune-up a John Deere D-110 lawn tractor. Here's the tune-up kit for this tractor: https://amzn.to/3pspIOZ Other similar kits are available, double check the correct model number of your lawn tractor is listed in the description.

Always think safety first: park your mower on a flat surface for a good visual inspection to start you off. Tire pressure is probably one of the most over-looked tune-up procedures. Low pressure makes turning your mower difficult, and will lead to damaged tires, and rims. Always check your owner's manual for the correct tire pressure. 

Some tips and details that I did not get into the video:

Batteries that sit over the winter without a trickle charger tend to get corroded terminals. An accumulation of white powdery globs around the terminals need to be cleaned off. Mix up a simple solution of baking soda and water, about 4 tablespoons to one quart (or liter) of water. Stir it until the soda is dissolved. Pour a small amount over each terminal. The solution will bubble up pretty aggressively. Let it sit for a few moments, and hose off the bubbles. Pour some more solution on each terminal, wait for it to bubble again and hose off. Repeat this process until each terminal stops bubbling with a fresh pour of solution. Scrub each terminal with an old tooth brush or a soft wire brush and repeat the baking soda solution until there are no more bubbles.  The baking soda and water mixture has neutralized the acid build up and hopefully it will stop. You can purchase some battery terminal grease or spray to help prevent further acid corrosion:  https://amzn.to/3wYYy4Q 

If you are wanting to replace your fuel filter, be mindful that most fuel filters which have a paper element are directional.  Look for an arrow or other mark to indicate the direction of the fuel flow. Avoid using those small red plastic pancake style filters. Inside is only a screen to catch large debris and those still allow an excess of small dirt and silt to pass on into your carburettor. Always choose a filter with a clear bowl (this lets you visually inspect if it's clogged up) and ensure you are matching the ends of the filter with the size of your fuel line. Be careful not to try and force fuel lines too small for the fitting. 

Another thing with fuel filters, is to inspect the fuel lines for cracking and tears. I find it best to trim off the 3/8" to 1/2" (10-13mm) that was on the old filter fittings. That fuel line has been expanded and might leak if put back on the new filter. Often they don't have hose clamps and just rely on friction to keep the fuel line on the fitting. 

Look all around your chassis and wheels for more grease fittings. It's best to consult your owner's manual for all the correct lubrication points.  I use a general purpose waterproof grease for jobs like this. More often than not, a few pumps on the grease gun is a plenty. This is definitely a case of where more is not always best. Too much grease can create pressure as it heats up and can break through seals that are there to prevent grease getting into places where it should not be, like brake shoes.  

I hope these tips and tricks can empower you with oracle like skills to make your small engines run smoothly and consistently.

Please subscribe to my Youtube channel: The Lawnmower Lady and get notifications of new videos. Or follow along on Instagram at thelawnmowerlady and Twitter at the Lawnmower Lady 

Mow Happy!

Standard Disclaimer: Any links to products are likely affiliate links, and I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases (Thank You!), with no additional costs to you.

Wear your safety glasses, or you'll put your eye out. Try on some gloves. Take off that spark plug boot. Clean your room. Open the windows, those fumes are nasty. Just 'cause I do it, don't think it's the end all, be all solution. There's plenty more ideas out there, I can't take responsibility if you slice off a few fingers after watching my videos. And don't just pour that toxic stuff down the sewer or in the ditch, dispose of waste responsibly. Just be safe, OK?

Air Filter Change on a Briggs & Stratton E-Series Engine

Air filters are the lungs of your small engine. A clogged or dirty air filter means you engine will have trouble breathing. Air, and more appropriately the right amount of air is one of the holy trinity of combustion: spark, fuel, and air. It's quick and easy to check, and just as simple to replace if it's too dirty. Here's how I change the air filter on those smaller Briggs & Stratton E-Series engines found on many Craftsman, Bolens, and MTD lawn mowers:

While mowing in very dusty or sandy soils, your air filter will pick up lots of debris. Often it's enough to dust it off, but if it's clogged up with dirt and grass clippings, it might just be easier to replace. Here's the filters shown in the video: https://amzn.to/3cpDe0q

You can clean foam filters like the one in the video. Tap or blow off all the big chunks of dirt, and clean it with mild soap and water. It might take a few rinses to get the water to run clear, but after that, squeeze out as much water from the filter as you can and allow it to throughly dry out. Re-oiling the filter is necessary as you saw in the video. If you don't have time to wait for the filter to dry, you can always have a spare filter oiled and ready if you keep the extra one oiled up in a plastic sandwich bag.  You can't clean an air filter with a paper element with soap and water. If tapping or blowing off the dust and dirt is not sufficient, replacement is the best answer.

Another thing to look out for is if your filter is dripping or covered in heavy oil. This is a sign of your engine being overfilled with oil. Or perhaps the mower was turned over on the wrong side while it was still hot. There is a breather tube to the crank case that is necessary for the engine to operate at atmospheric pressure. If there was not this breather, the engine would build up too much internal pressure with each revolution of the crankshaft. These breather tubes are typically routed back through the airbox to allow excess combustion gases to be burned up, rather than just escape into the atmosphere.

Don't be tempted to run your mower with no air filter. It's really necessary to keep out dirt and particles that can score or scratch up your cylinder walls, pistons, piston rings, and valve seats. These small scratches will not allow your engine to generate enough compression to ignite the fuel and air mixture that is needed. Your mower will run weaker and be unable to operate efficiently in taller grass without stumbling or having trouble staying running.

I hope these tips and tutorials can empower you with oracle like skills to make your small engines run smoothly and consistently.

Please subscribe to my Youtube channel: The Lawnmower Lady and get notifications of new videos. Or follow along on Instagram at thelawnmowerlady and Twitter at the Lawnmower Lady 

Mow Happy!

Standard Disclaimer: Any links to products are likely affiliate links, and I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases (Thank You!), with no additional costs to you.

Wear your safety glasses, or you'll put your eye out. Try on some gloves. Take off that spark plug boot. Clean your room. Open the windows, those fumes are nasty. Just 'cause I do it, don't think it's the end all, be all solution. There's plenty more ideas out there, I can't take responsibility if you slice off a few fingers after watching my videos. And don't just pour that toxic stuff down the sewer or in the ditch, dispose of waste responsibly. Just be safe, OK?

Remove , Clean and Re-install Those Plastic Carbs on Briggs & Stratton Lawn Mowers

Is your Bolens or other smaller mower hard to start? Does it have problems staying running? It just might need a good cleaning. My latest YouTube video will guide you on how to remove, disassemble, clean and re-install that plastic carburettor on your Briggs & Stratton E-series engine. 

 

You can find a new air filter here: https://amzn.to/3cpDe0q or if you happen to damage or lose any o-rings or gaskets, get replacements here: https://amzn.to/3gcTz9R Get some tip cleaners like in the video: https://amzn.to/3uXuiWG

This is sort of a long video, so I've included some timestamp references if you want to skip ahead of review any particular parts of the video:

1:15 carburettor removal 5:45 clean carb exterior 8:10 clean internal jets and parts 12:37 carburettor re-assembly 15:12 re-attach carb to engine intake 17:16 carb air box and filter re-assembly

Several years ago, when Briggs & Stratton started to manufacturer their smaller engines overseas, their E-series engine was developed. One of the fascinating innovations was to include a carburetor made almost entirely of a nylon-like plastic material. There's some good reasoning behind this. It weighs less. It is less prone to corrosion and deterioration common with certain metal parts. And I suspect the biggest reason was cost.  

Since it is made of mostly plastic, some of the older caustic chemicals commonly used in the past to clean carburettor parts, are too harsh and can damage or deform some of the plastic parts. Care must be taken to minimize the use of aerosol carburettor spray. These chemicals will cause gaskets and o-rings to swell up, and deform. I typically use old/bad gasoline that I have drained from other equipment repairs to clean the biggest dirt and grime from all parts. I use only the smallest amount of aerosol to clean the smallest orifices, and blow out any excess immediately.  Eventually I take this dirty fuel to my local hazardous waste center. I figure I'm saving the planet by reusing and recycling old gasoline, and I'm not releasing to much aerosol into the atmosphere.

Despite the advantages, these carbs still suffer from the same points of failure as good old fashioned metal carburetors. They can get gummed up from old gasoline. Ethanol gasoline can deteriorate quickly, leaving water. And since these small engines carburettors are gravity fed, mean ol' Mr. Gravity won't allow enough fuel to get sucked into the intake since water is heavier than gasoline. 

I hope these tips and tricks can empower you with oracle like skills to make your small engines run smoothly and consistently.

Please subscribe to my Youtube channel: The Lawnmower Lady and get notifications of new videos. Or follow along on Instagram at thelawnmowerlady and Twitter at the Lawnmower Lady 

Mow Happy!

Standard Disclaimer: Any links to products are likely affiliate links, and I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases (Thank You!), with no additional costs to you.

Wear your safety glasses, or you'll put your eye out. Try on some gloves. Take off that spark plug boot. Clean your room. Open the windows, those fumes are nasty. Just 'cause I do it, don't think it's the end all, be all solution. There's plenty more ideas out there, I can't take responsibility if you slice off a few fingers after watching my videos. And don't just pour that toxic stuff down the sewer or in the ditch, dispose of waste responsibly. Just be safe, OK?

Clean and Gap the Spark Plug on a Briggs & Stratton E-Series Engine

Spark plugs can reveal dirty little secrets of the health of your small engine! Learning how to read your spark plug can give you great powers to understand and diagnose simple problems with how your lawn mower or other gas powered garden tools are performing.

You don't always need to change out your spark plug. Sometimes just cleaning and checking the "gap" is all that is needed to get your mower starting easier and running better.  Spark plug maintenance is easy, and cheap; and it requires few tools. 

Understand that a plug that is oily, sooty, or has some debris on the end might make your small engine hard to start, and run poorly. Also, understanding when a plug is too dirty or worn, is the time to replace. Throwing parts at a machine is not always the best idea, but spark plugs are cheap.  Here's a link to a Champion replacement plug https://amzn.to/3z5Gc40 if the OEM plug from Briggs is not in stock https://amzn.to/3pDnZGV

In a perfect world, the porcelain covering the inner electrode should be a chocolatey brown color. Even light coffee with cream colored is OK too. This means your engine is running in tip top condition. But that is often not the reality of gas powered small engines for lawn and garden use.

A plug that is black and sooty can tell you your engine is not getting enough air, Maybe a dirty or clogged air filter is causing the problems. Depending on which type of air filter you have, you might also clean or replace that. Foam air filters can be cleaned if they are not too deteriorated, but paper filter elements too dirty or saturated with oil cannot be cleaned. A dirty or clogged air filter can also cause you to flood your engine. 

An oily plug can mean your engine oil is over filled. Be sure and check your oil level when the engine is cold, and while it's sitting on flat ground. 

A plug that is wet with gasoline is a good sign that you have flooded your engine. The common solution for a flooded small engine is to hold the throttle wide open and pull the starter repeatedly to clear out the excess fuel. Since most lawn mowers don't have a throttle control, one solution is to pull the spark plug and pull the starter rapidly to help dry out the excess fuel. 

A white, or ashen plug can mean your air filter is missing altogether and this makes the engine run lean. An engine running too lean is running too hot, and most gas powered lawn and gardening tools are air cooled. A missing air filter too will allow debris into your combustion chamber and possible damage piston rings or the inside of the cylinder.

I hope these tips and tricks can empower you with oracle like skills to make your small engines run smoothly and consistently.

Please watch for new videos on Youtube at The Lawnmower Lady or follow along on Instagram at thelawnmowerlady and Twitter at the Lawnmower Lady 

Mow Happy!

Standard Disclaimer: Any links to products are likely affiliate links, and I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases (Thank You!), with no additional costs to you.

Wear your safety glasses, or you'll put your eye out. Try on some gloves. Take off that spark plug boot. Clean your room. Open the windows, those fumes are nasty. Just 'cause I do it, don't think it's the end all, be all solution. There's plenty more ideas out there, I can't take responsibility if you slice off a few fingers after watching my videos. And don't just pour that toxic stuff down the sewer or in the ditch, dispose of waste responsibly. Just be safe, OK?