Springtime is that time of year to get your lawn tractor back out of the shed to start mowing. It's also a great time to give your old riding mower some well deserved TLC to keep it running at its best. These "tune-up" procedures will be the same or similar for smaller riding mowers in the 42" cut range on Husqvarna, Craftsman, Poulan Pro, Ariens, Troy-Bilt, Cub Cadet, and several others. Follow along with my tutorial on how I tune-up a John Deere D-110 lawn tractor. Here's the tune-up kit for this tractor: https://amzn.to/3pspIOZ Other similar kits are available, double check the correct model number of your lawn tractor is listed in the description.
Always think safety first: park your mower on a flat surface for a good visual inspection to start you off. Tire pressure is probably one of the most over-looked tune-up procedures. Low pressure makes turning your mower difficult, and will lead to damaged tires, and rims. Always check your owner's manual for the correct tire pressure.
Some tips and details that I did not get into the video:
Batteries that sit over the winter without a trickle charger tend to get corroded terminals. An accumulation of white powdery globs around the terminals need to be cleaned off. Mix up a simple solution of baking soda and water, about 4 tablespoons to one quart (or liter) of water. Stir it until the soda is dissolved. Pour a small amount over each terminal. The solution will bubble up pretty aggressively. Let it sit for a few moments, and hose off the bubbles. Pour some more solution on each terminal, wait for it to bubble again and hose off. Repeat this process until each terminal stops bubbling with a fresh pour of solution. Scrub each terminal with an old tooth brush or a soft wire brush and repeat the baking soda solution until there are no more bubbles. The baking soda and water mixture has neutralized the acid build up and hopefully it will stop. You can purchase some battery terminal grease or spray to help prevent further acid corrosion: https://amzn.to/3wYYy4Q
If you are wanting to replace your fuel filter, be mindful that most fuel filters which have a paper element are directional. Look for an arrow or other mark to indicate the direction of the fuel flow. Avoid using those small red plastic pancake style filters. Inside is only a screen to catch large debris and those still allow an excess of small dirt and silt to pass on into your carburettor. Always choose a filter with a clear bowl (this lets you visually inspect if it's clogged up) and ensure you are matching the ends of the filter with the size of your fuel line. Be careful not to try and force fuel lines too small for the fitting.
Another thing with fuel filters, is to inspect the fuel lines for cracking and tears. I find it best to trim off the 3/8" to 1/2" (10-13mm) that was on the old filter fittings. That fuel line has been expanded and might leak if put back on the new filter. Often they don't have hose clamps and just rely on friction to keep the fuel line on the fitting.
Look all around your chassis and wheels for more grease fittings. It's best to consult your owner's manual for all the correct lubrication points. I use a general purpose waterproof grease for jobs like this. More often than not, a few pumps on the grease gun is a plenty. This is definitely a case of where more is not always best. Too much grease can create pressure as it heats up and can break through seals that are there to prevent grease getting into places where it should not be, like brake shoes.
I hope these tips and tricks can empower you with oracle like skills to make your small engines run smoothly and consistently.
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Mow Happy!
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