I like fixing small engines. My wish is to empower the average homeowner or DIYer with knowledge and skills to repair their own lawn and garden equipment. Even if you don't feel too handy with tools, hopefully you might come away with some basic knowledge to know the right questions to ask when you do decide to take your lawn and garden gadgets to a repair shop.
Springtime is here and that means its time to check your oil dipstick! Second to a dirty air filter, checking and changing the oil on your small engine is often overlooked. This Briggs & Stratton L-head engine is common on many older lawn mowers with brand names like Craftsman, Yard Machines, Troy-Bilt, Cub Cadet, Murray, and several others. Follow along with my latest Youtube video to check and change the oil on your older lawn mower:
Here is the oil that Briggs & Stratton recommends: https://amzn.to/3ppXrZk for their small engines. Regardless of what oil you use, the proper amount is paramount. Always check your owner's manual, but generally speaking these small engines take around 18-20oz or a little over 1/2 liter of oil. Running too low can cause your engine to seize up. That might mean a new lawn mower. I would venture to say that ten year old lawn mower you own now is a far better machine than a new one that you can buy from a big box store today. Since so much manufacturing has gone overseas, the companies have to cut corners and that is apparent in the quality and reliability of the newer mowers.
Running too much oil is not quite as bad as running out, but it's a close second. Too much oil will back through your air filter, clogging that up. It tends to foul spark plugs as well. Unfortunately adding more oil to a poorly running machine is not going to fix the problem. I find often someone has gone to a popular discount department store, purchased the first quart of oil they see on the shelf, and pour the entire full quart into their mower. This causes more problems that it fixes, and the mower belches out white smoke as the muffler clogs up with the excess oil that is trying to escape the internal pressure of the running engine. That picture on the left is a full quart of bar and chain oil (for use in chainsaws, not lawn mowers!)
Most any dip stick will have marks to indicate the acceptable oil level range. Often it's two small holes drilled near the end of a metal dipstick with some hashmarks between the holes. Plastic dip sticks often have a hashmarked area on the dipstick to indicate the acceptable range. Always check your owner's manual, and if you don't have the hard copy of that, google your model number (not the serial number) with the words "owners manual" There are numerous resources online with free PDF copies of nearly every machine made is the last 50 years. You might need to register your email to download your manual, but I've never found the need to purchase or spend any money getting a small engine manual. Way, way too much oil on this dipstick!
Once you have your owner's manual on hand, make sure your mower is on a level surface to check your oil. If you just shut it off, wait about five minutes for an accurate reading. Most Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh engines require you to screw the dip stick back in completely. Most Hondas and some Kohler engines do not, and usually have a sticker on the side indicating as much. I can't emphasize enough: Check your Owner's Manual to be sure!!
I hope these tips and tricks can empower you with oracle like skills to make your small engines run smoothly and consistently.
Standard Disclaimer:
Any links to products are likely affiliate links, and I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases (Thank You!), with no additional costs to you.
Wear your safety glasses, or you'll put your eye out. Try on some gloves. Take off that spark plug boot. Clean your room. Open the windows, those fumes are nasty. Just 'cause I do it, don't think it's the end all, be all solution. There's plenty more ideas out there, I can't take responsibility if you slice off a few fingers after watching my videos. And don't just pour that toxic stuff down the sewer or in the ditch, dispose of waste responsibly. Just be safe, OK?
Springtime is that time of year to get your lawn tractor back out of the shed to start mowing. It's also a great time to give your old riding mower some well deserved TLC to keep it running at its best. These "tune-up" procedures will be the same or similar for smaller riding mowers in the 42" cut range on Husqvarna, Craftsman, Poulan Pro, Ariens, Troy-Bilt, Cub Cadet, and several others. Follow along with my tutorial on how I tune-up a John Deere D-110 lawn tractor. Here's the tune-up kit for this tractor: https://amzn.to/3pspIOZ Other similar kits are available, double check the correct model number of your lawn tractor is listed in the description.
Always think safety first: park your mower on a flat surface for a good visual inspection to start you off. Tire pressure is probably one of the most over-looked tune-up procedures. Low pressure makes turning your mower difficult, and will lead to damaged tires, and rims. Always check your owner's manual for the correct tire pressure.
Some tips and details that I did not get into the video:
Batteries that sit over the winter without a trickle charger tend to get corroded terminals. An accumulation of white powdery globs around the terminals need to be cleaned off. Mix up a simple solution of baking soda and water, about 4 tablespoons to one quart (or liter) of water. Stir it until the soda is dissolved. Pour a small amount over each terminal. The solution will bubble up pretty aggressively. Let it sit for a few moments, and hose off the bubbles. Pour some more solution on each terminal, wait for it to bubble again and hose off. Repeat this process until each terminal stops bubbling with a fresh pour of solution. Scrub each terminal with an old tooth brush or a soft wire brush and repeat the baking soda solution until there are no more bubbles. The baking soda and water mixture has neutralized the acid build up and hopefully it will stop. You can purchase some battery terminal grease or spray to help prevent further acid corrosion: https://amzn.to/3wYYy4Q
If you are wanting to replace your fuel filter, be mindful that most fuel filters which have a paper element are directional. Look for an arrow or other mark to indicate the direction of the fuel flow. Avoid using those small red plastic pancake style filters. Inside is only a screen to catch large debris and those still allow an excess of small dirt and silt to pass on into your carburettor. Always choose a filter with a clear bowl (this lets you visually inspect if it's clogged up) and ensure you are matching the ends of the filter with the size of your fuel line. Be careful not to try and force fuel lines too small for the fitting.
Another thing with fuel filters, is to inspect the fuel lines for cracking and tears. I find it best to trim off the 3/8" to 1/2" (10-13mm) that was on the old filter fittings. That fuel line has been expanded and might leak if put back on the new filter. Often they don't have hose clamps and just rely on friction to keep the fuel line on the fitting.
Look all around your chassis and wheels for more grease fittings. It's best to consult your owner's manual for all the correct lubrication points. I use a general purpose waterproof grease for jobs like this. More often than not, a few pumps on the grease gun is a plenty. This is definitely a case of where more is not always best. Too much grease can create pressure as it heats up and can break through seals that are there to prevent grease getting into places where it should not be, like brake shoes.
I hope these tips and tricks can empower you with oracle like skills to make your small engines run smoothly and consistently.
Standard Disclaimer:
Any links to products are likely affiliate links, and I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases (Thank You!), with no additional costs to you.
Wear your safety glasses, or you'll put your eye out. Try on some gloves. Take off that spark plug boot. Clean your room. Open the windows, those fumes are nasty. Just 'cause I do it, don't think it's the end all, be all solution. There's plenty more ideas out there, I can't take responsibility if you slice off a few fingers after watching my videos. And don't just pour that toxic stuff down the sewer or in the ditch, dispose of waste responsibly. Just be safe, OK?
Does your older lawn mower surge? Is it hard to start? Maybe that old ethanol gas has eaten away at the carburetor pump and diaphragm. It's pretty common this time of year when you first try to start that mower. Over the years of using gasoline with ethanol, it tends to distort and degrade the rubber parts that are not suited for ethanol. Watch this YouTube video to see how easy it is to replace those parts and get your mower running like new again.
A few things to keep in mind. 1) Be mindful of all the plastic and aluminum parts. Over-tightening screws can warp the carburetor manifold, and can strip out the treads on the tank. 2) It's easy to mis-place gaskets and rubber boots. The rubber elbow boot on the breather has a big side and a little side. The bigger side goes on the carburettor manifold, and the smaller end on the breather tube from the engine. Sometimes the air box gasket is stuck to the bottom of the air box. 3) Inspect all the parts you remove. These plastic and rubber parts degrade or flatten out over time and can lead to poor running conditions. Look for cracks, tears and breaks; or if that O-ring is flattened out and not longer looking like an "O"
If you do have any old gas in that can from last year, you can easily dispose of it in the fuel tank of your automobile. Your car has been designed with upgraded seals and rubber bits to withstand ethanol. A 1/2 gallon or so of stale gas mixed in with a mostly full tank of gasoline in your card is negligible. Your car won't miss a beat, even if there's a bit of moisture left in your gas can.
There's several parts to get back on in certain order. I find it helpful to take notes, or sketch what goes where. I also take a lot of photos with my phone to help reconstruct what parts go back where. It's especially helpful if you need to order parts and have to wait a few days to get it back together.
I hope these tips and tutorials can empower you with oracle like skills to make your small engines run smoothly and consistently.
Standard Disclaimer:
Any links to products are likely affiliate links, and I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases (Thank You!), with no additional costs to you.
Wear your safety glasses, or you'll put your eye out. Try on some gloves. Take off that spark plug boot. Clean your room. Open the windows, those fumes are nasty. Just 'cause I do it, don't think it's the end all, be all solution. There's plenty more ideas out there, I can't take responsibility if you slice off a few fingers after watching my videos. And don't just pour that toxic stuff down the sewer or in the ditch, dispose of waste responsibly. Just be safe, OK?
