The Lawnmower Lady

Troy-Bilt Mower with Honda GCV160 Engine Carburetor Clean

No start on your mower with the Honda GCV160 engine?

Honda makes great engines for lawn mowers. That is why so many brands like Troy-Bilt, Lawn Boy, Husqvarna, just to name a few use these very reliable engines. This same engine is used on power washers, and water pumps, not just your lawn mower.

Unfortunately, regardless of the brand, they are all victim to ethanol. Ethanol is not unlike the rubbing alcohol in your medicine cabinet. It is mostly water, and as an additive to gasoline or petrol, soon that ethanol evaporates and what is left is water. Since most of these small engines have no fuel pump, these carburetor systems rely on gravity to feed petrol from the tank into the carburetor. And, since water is heavier than fuel, once even a small amount of water accumulates into the float bowl of the carburetor, it will never start.

This YouTube video will guide you on how to remove, clean and replace that Keihin carburettor on your Honda GCV160 engine. It's a pretty easy job, but there are several gaskets that can tear on disassembly so go slow. Often it is not obvious how they go back together, so take a few photos along the way. It is a fiddly task, but as long as you are methodical in reassembly, you will be successful.

The carburettor in this video sat for a long time with ethanol added fuel, and the water eventually started gelling up and in-turn completely clogged up all the internal passages. Granted, this mower sat for a few years like this, but the tendency to clog up will happen slowly and cumulatively over time, eventually turning into a thick goo.

If feel your carburettor is too far gone a replacement might be the cure: https://amzn.to/2SnuwJB This kit should have all the gaskets as well. If you merely need a few gaskets this kit should cover you as well: https://amzn.to/3wkTpnR I don't often have to replace the fibre bowl gasket, only when they get very dried out: https://amzn.to/3viBqx6 And in the really unfortunate event the auto choke gets broken or damaged, here is a replacement: https://amzn.to/2TYKCtn As always, be sure and double check your model number to make sure you get the correct part.

Ethanol free petrol can often be found near lakes and marinas, to accommodate recreational users. Many local regulations allow non-ethanol fuel only for off road use. In the USA and Canada, check out the website https://www.pure-gas.org/ This is a crowd-based website to help you locate which fuel stations, and more importantly which fuel-pumps at that particular station supplies ethanol-free fuel. Since the site is crowd sourced, it is usually pretty up to date and accurate. It might not be obvious which pump supplies non-ethanol. It might be best to go into the store to enquire, although the price should be a give-away. I always find non-ethanol fuel to be the priciest option.

My best advice, especially if you live in an area where you cannot find ethanol-free fuel is to turn off the fuel tap, and let the mower run dry. This will take a few minutes, but you can be assured the carburetor bowl will not be sitting with ethanol enhanced fuel in the bowl. If you get into this habit, you won't forget at the end of your mowing season. I know I'm always thinking near the end of fall that I might get one more mow in the season. Often I don't and I sure don't think to go out, turn off the tap and let the mower run dry.

I hope these tips and tricks can empower you with oracle like skills to make your small engines run smoothly and consistently.

Please subscribe to my Youtube channel: The Lawnmower Lady and get notifications of new videos. Or follow along on Instagram at thelawnmowerlady and Twitter at the Lawnmower Lady

Mow Happy!

Standard Disclaimer: Any links to products are likely affiliate links, and I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases (Thank You!), with no additional costs to you.

Wear your safety glasses, or you'll put your eye out. Try on some gloves. Take off that spark plug boot. Clean your room. Open the windows, those fumes are nasty. Just 'cause I do it, don't think it's the end all, be all solution. There's plenty more ideas out there, I can't take responsibility if you slice off a few fingers after watching my videos. And don't just pour that toxic stuff down the sewer or in the ditch, dispose of waste responsibly. Just be safe, OK?

Replacing a Lawn Mower Brake Cable

Is your push mower hard to start? Does your lawn mower cut out intermittently? Have you checked for spark and found there is no spark? You might have a damaged or broken brake cable.

Most any walk-behind mower manufactured in the last 30 years or so, and sold in the United States has been required to include a handle mounted blade brake. This handle operates a cable that terminates at the engine end on a bracket with a monstrously stiff return spring. Some manufacturers call it a "zone control" cable, or a "safety" cable. They all do the same thing, and serve a double purpose when the handle is released: the cable engages a switch to ground out the ignition coil and the return spring releases a small brake pad that stops the flywheel from turning.

This YouTube video will help explain how these mechanisms work, how they can go bad, and tips to make sure you get the right brake cable for your lawn mower.

Any old cable will not work on any old mower. There are mostly unforgiving measurements from the termination points on each end that will not engage the switch if the inner cable is too long. And if the inner cable is too short, the bail handle cannot swing completely around to touch the top of the handle bar.

There are plenty of parts websites that can give you the exact cable assembly needed for your mower. The model number of the mower, usually found on a sticker on the deck, or sometimes under the grass bag flap, is all you need to find the correct replacement cable.

Often times measurements are posted incorrectly on big websites, and pictures are wrong as well. Before you break out that cable from the bag, ensure both ends match your existing cable incase you need to return it. The critical measurements rarely if ever listed is the distance from the fixed end of the outer cable to where it attaches to the moving handle.

I hope these tips and tricks can empower you with oracle like skills to make your small engines run smoothly and consistently.

Please subscribe to my Youtube channel: The Lawnmower Lady and get notifications of new videos. Or follow along on Instagram at thelawnmowerlady and Twitter at the Lawnmower Lady

Mow Happy!

Standard Disclaimer: Any links to products are likely affiliate links, and I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases (Thank You!), with no additional costs to you.

How Best to Evaluate the "Bargains" at Yard Sales and Thrift Stores

This time of year (Springtime, yay!) you find boat loads of lawn and garden tools in various states of repair at thrift stores and yard sales. Sure there's some great bargains to be had, but how much of a bargain is it really? As they say, if it's too good to be true... My latest video will empower you to decide if the bargain is worth the cash when looking at 2-stroke weed trimmers, edgers, blowers and even chainsaws.

Follow along on my version of "A Tale of Two Trimmers":

Yard sales afford you a better chance of getting the straight dope on a particular piece of equipment. Question the owner: "How long have you had this tool?" "Ever had it services by a shop?" "When was the last time you used it?" These are all clues to the condition and more importantly how well this tool was cared for. The answers might also give you reason to barter on the price as well.

In any event, most yard sale and thrift store purchases will require some additional time and parts and money to get going again. New carburetors, filters and carb kits can cost less than $40. Keep in mind you'll have to tune the carb from scratch if you go with a replacement rather than a rebuild kit. Taking the tool to a repair center can cost upwards of $80-$100. So add all those costs in your calculation to decide if it's worth the purchase.

Good luck with your yard sale and thrift store adventures.

If you are looking for any of the tools I showed you, please check these links:

Chainsaw multi-tool: https://amzn.to/3fVZvVW

Inline Neon Spark Tester: https://amzn.to/3z6DrPQ

Ignition Tester: https://amzn.to/3cn034R

No Contact Spark Tester: https://amzn.to/2TNBMyE

Compression Test Tool: https://amzn.to/3z74BX6

I hope these tips and tricks can empower you with oracle like skills to make your small engines run smoothly and consistently.

Please subscribe to my Youtube channel: The Lawnmower Lady and get notifications of new videos. Or follow along on Instagram at thelawnmowerlady and Twitter at the Lawnmower Lady

Mow Happy!

Standard Disclaimer: Any links to products are likely affiliate links, and I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases (Thank You!), with no additional costs to you.

No More Messy Oil Changes on your Horizontal Mounted Engine

Changing the oil on your horizontal mounted engine can make for a real mess. These configurations are common on generators, pressure washers, pumps, and chipper-shredders. Often the deck or frame the engine is mounted upon obstructs the flow from the drain plug, leaving a mess on your hands. Follow this quick tip to minimize the mess and make getting to that drain plug in a tight space.

Here is an inexpensive set of extensions incase you have misplaced yours: https://amzn.to/3ghL0dU

I hope these tips and tricks can empower you with oracle like skills to make your small engines run smoothly and consistently.

Please subscribe to my Youtube channel: The Lawnmower Lady and get notifications of new videos. Or follow along on Instagram at thelawnmowerlady and Twitter at the Lawnmower Lady

Mow Happy!

Standard Disclaimer: Any links to products are likely affiliate links, and I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases (Thank You!), with no additional costs to you.

Change the Oil on Your Older Briggs & Stratton Lawn Mower's L-Head Engine

Springtime is here and that means its time to check your oil dipstick! Second to a dirty air filter, checking and changing the oil on your small engine is often overlooked. This Briggs & Stratton L-head engine is common on many older lawn mowers with brand names like Craftsman, Yard Machines, Troy-Bilt, Cub Cadet, Murray, and several others. Follow along with my latest Youtube video to check and change the oil on your older lawn mower:

Here is the oil that Briggs & Stratton recommends: https://amzn.to/3ppXrZk for their small engines. Regardless of what oil you use, the proper amount is paramount. Always check your owner's manual, but generally speaking these small engines take around 18-20oz or a little over 1/2 liter of oil. Running too low can cause your engine to seize up. That might mean a new lawn mower. I would venture to say that ten year old lawn mower you own now is a far better machine than a new one that you can buy from a big box store today. Since so much manufacturing has gone overseas, the companies have to cut corners and that is apparent in the quality and reliability of the newer mowers.

Running too much oil is not quite as bad as running out, but it's a close second. Too much oil will back through your air filter, clogging that up. It tends to foul spark plugs as well. Unfortunately adding more oil to a poorly running machine is not going to fix the problem. I find often someone has gone to a popular discount department store, purchased the first quart of oil they see on the shelf, and pour the entire full quart into their mower. This causes more problems that it fixes, and the mower belches out white smoke as the muffler clogs up with the excess oil that is trying to escape the internal pressure of the running engine. That picture on the left is a full quart of bar and chain oil (for use in chainsaws, not lawn mowers!)

Most any dip stick will have marks to indicate the acceptable oil level range. Often it's two small holes drilled near the end of a metal dipstick with some hashmarks between the holes. Plastic dip sticks often have a hashmarked area on the dipstick to indicate the acceptable range. Always check your owner's manual, and if you don't have the hard copy of that, google your model number (not the serial number) with the words "owners manual" There are numerous resources online with free PDF copies of nearly every machine made is the last 50 years. You might need to register your email to download your manual, but I've never found the need to purchase or spend any money getting a small engine manual. Way, way too much oil on this dipstick!

Once you have your owner's manual on hand, make sure your mower is on a level surface to check your oil. If you just shut it off, wait about five minutes for an accurate reading. Most Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh engines require you to screw the dip stick back in completely. Most Hondas and some Kohler engines do not, and usually have a sticker on the side indicating as much. I can't emphasize enough: Check your Owner's Manual to be sure!!

I hope these tips and tricks can empower you with oracle like skills to make your small engines run smoothly and consistently.

Please subscribe to my Youtube channel: The Lawnmower Lady and get notifications of new videos. Or follow along on Instagram at thelawnmowerlady and Twitter at the Lawnmower Lady

Mow Happy!

Standard Disclaimer: Any links to products are likely affiliate links, and I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases (Thank You!), with no additional costs to you.

Riding Mower Tune-up for a John Deere D-110 Lawn Tractor

Springtime is that time of year to get your lawn tractor back out of the shed to start mowing. It's also a great time to give your old riding mower some well deserved TLC to keep it running at its best. These "tune-up" procedures will be the same or similar for smaller riding mowers in the 42" cut range on Husqvarna, Craftsman, Poulan Pro, Ariens, Troy-Bilt, Cub Cadet, and several others. Follow along with my tutorial on how I tune-up a John Deere D-110 lawn tractor. Here's the tune-up kit for this tractor: https://amzn.to/3pspIOZ Other similar kits are available, double check the correct model number of your lawn tractor is listed in the description.

Always think safety first: park your mower on a flat surface for a good visual inspection to start you off. Tire pressure is probably one of the most over-looked tune-up procedures. Low pressure makes turning your mower difficult, and will lead to damaged tires, and rims. Always check your owner's manual for the correct tire pressure.

Some tips and details that I did not get into the video:

Batteries that sit over the winter without a trickle charger tend to get corroded terminals. An accumulation of white powdery globs around the terminals need to be cleaned off. Mix up a simple solution of baking soda and water, about 4 tablespoons to one quart (or liter) of water. Stir it until the soda is dissolved. Pour a small amount over each terminal. The solution will bubble up pretty aggressively. Let it sit for a few moments, and hose off the bubbles. Pour some more solution on each terminal, wait for it to bubble again and hose off. Repeat this process until each terminal stops bubbling with a fresh pour of solution. Scrub each terminal with an old tooth brush or a soft wire brush and repeat the baking soda solution until there are no more bubbles. The baking soda and water mixture has neutralized the acid build up and hopefully it will stop. You can purchase some battery terminal grease or spray to help prevent further acid corrosion: https://amzn.to/3wYYy4Q

If you are wanting to replace your fuel filter, be mindful that most fuel filters which have a paper element are directional. Look for an arrow or other mark to indicate the direction of the fuel flow. Avoid using those small red plastic pancake style filters. Inside is only a screen to catch large debris and those still allow an excess of small dirt and silt to pass on into your carburettor. Always choose a filter with a clear bowl (this lets you visually inspect if it's clogged up) and ensure you are matching the ends of the filter with the size of your fuel line. Be careful not to try and force fuel lines too small for the fitting.

Another thing with fuel filters, is to inspect the fuel lines for cracking and tears. I find it best to trim off the 3/8" to 1/2" (10-13mm) that was on the old filter fittings. That fuel line has been expanded and might leak if put back on the new filter. Often they don't have hose clamps and just rely on friction to keep the fuel line on the fitting.

Look all around your chassis and wheels for more grease fittings. It's best to consult your owner's manual for all the correct lubrication points. I use a general purpose waterproof grease for jobs like this. More often than not, a few pumps on the grease gun is a plenty. This is definitely a case of where more is not always best. Too much grease can create pressure as it heats up and can break through seals that are there to prevent grease getting into places where it should not be, like brake shoes.

I hope these tips and tricks can empower you with oracle like skills to make your small engines run smoothly and consistently.

Please subscribe to my Youtube channel: The Lawnmower Lady and get notifications of new videos. Or follow along on Instagram at thelawnmowerlady and Twitter at the Lawnmower Lady

Mow Happy!

Standard Disclaimer: Any links to products are likely affiliate links, and I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases (Thank You!), with no additional costs to you.

Diaphragm Pump Replacement on Briggs & Stratton Pulsa Jet Carburettor

Does your older lawn mower surge? Is it hard to start? Maybe that old ethanol gas has eaten away at the carburetor pump and diaphragm. It's pretty common this time of year when you first try to start that mower. Over the years of using gasoline with ethanol, it tends to distort and degrade the rubber parts that are not suited for ethanol. Watch this YouTube video to see how easy it is to replace those parts and get your mower running like new again.

Here's the OEM carb re-build kit: https://amzn.to/3ckMYcg or Stens aftermarket kit I used in the video: https://amzn.to/34Vhw08 Both kits work well.

If your tank is too far gone, you will need to transfer your older carburetor to a new tank. Here's OEM replacement tank: https://amzn.to/3fZ9yd0

Here's some other smaller parts you might need to replace as well:

Breather tube grommet: https://amzn.to/3fXbMcB O-ring for intake tube: https://amzn.to/3ggS36z Retainer for O-ring: https://amzn.to/3fXn8gR

A few things to keep in mind. 1) Be mindful of all the plastic and aluminum parts. Over-tightening screws can warp the carburetor manifold, and can strip out the treads on the tank. 2) It's easy to mis-place gaskets and rubber boots. The rubber elbow boot on the breather has a big side and a little side. The bigger side goes on the carburettor manifold, and the smaller end on the breather tube from the engine. Sometimes the air box gasket is stuck to the bottom of the air box. 3) Inspect all the parts you remove. These plastic and rubber parts degrade or flatten out over time and can lead to poor running conditions. Look for cracks, tears and breaks; or if that O-ring is flattened out and not longer looking like an "O"

If you do have any old gas in that can from last year, you can easily dispose of it in the fuel tank of your automobile. Your car has been designed with upgraded seals and rubber bits to withstand ethanol. A 1/2 gallon or so of stale gas mixed in with a mostly full tank of gasoline in your card is negligible. Your car won't miss a beat, even if there's a bit of moisture left in your gas can.

There's several parts to get back on in certain order. I find it helpful to take notes, or sketch what goes where. I also take a lot of photos with my phone to help reconstruct what parts go back where. It's especially helpful if you need to order parts and have to wait a few days to get it back together.

I hope these tips and tutorials can empower you with oracle like skills to make your small engines run smoothly and consistently.

Please subscribe to my Youtube channel: The Lawnmower Lady and get notifications of new videos. Or follow along on Instagram at thelawnmowerlady and Twitter at the Lawnmower Lady

Mow Happy!

Standard Disclaimer: Any links to products are likely affiliate links, and I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases (Thank You!), with no additional costs to you.